Typically, I discover myself reflecting on my love for the ocean. I don’t know the place it got here from. I didn’t develop up close to the ocean, nor am I a lot of a seaside bum. Laying round in a swimsuit, like, in entrance of individuals all day doing nothing? And the way annoying is sand? Scoffs. No thanks.
Really, if I’m being sincere, I’m extra of a seaside particular person now than I was. Pretentious younger traveler me all the time wished to be doing issues and taking within the sights. Enjoyable and vacation by no means belonged in the identical sentence. I must SEE and DO it ALL.
Having burnt myself out so many occasions since, your lady loves a lazy vacation now. Present me the resort completely satisfied hour!
However again to the ocean. With no concept the place this ardour got here from, I can say now that I’m actually completely satisfied at sea. To go to the Arctic is to fall in love. I like it. I benefit from the rocking of the boat. The wild climate and waves. The sensation of transiting in a brand new means. The briny air and the sensation of insignificance. Mom Natch is in cost at sea.
I’ve been touring to the polar worlds by ship for years and years, making a few of my favourite journey recollections alongside the best way. In these distant corners of the earth, getting round by boat is just about the one possible approach to go to the Arctic. My job onboard was all the time journey content material, pictures, writing, and storytelling. I sat someplace in between the expedition workforce and passengers.
However deep down, I knew I wished to be a part of the workforce. I wished to get my fingers soiled and learn to work at sea. In 2023, I lastly discovered the braveness to pursue working as an expedition information on the Ocean Endeavour, an expedition ship alternating between the Arctic with Adventure Canada and the Antarctic with Intrepid, summer season to summer season.
I spent three months onboard with Journey Canada final summer season, touring from Scotland to the Faroes to Iceland to Greenland and ending in Canada. It was the journey of a lifetime, and I really feel honored to be a part of their household. There’s such a close-knit vibe onboard. My primary job was as media, taking photographs and gathering content material for storytelling, however I additionally doubled as a part of the expedition workforce. After a decade of working independently, being a part of a workforce felt so good.
And arguably the very best a part of all of it? Three months at sea means you see a ton of cool stuff. It allowed me to construct on my expertise, revisit locations I liked, and see issues by recent eyes. In case you go to the Arctic in the future, hopefully, you’ll get to share a few of these adventures, too. Listed below are ten of the best issues I noticed whereas onboard with Journey Canada – get pleasure from!
1. Polar bears consuming a beluga whale
I’ve managed to see some fairly wonderful issues in my life, particularly since I grew to become a full-time journey blogger in 2013. However surely, one of many coolest experiences of all occurred whereas visiting the Arctic within the Northwest Passage final September.
There’s this unbelievable place known as Coningham Bay, with a large, shallow bay with a slim inlet. Beluga whales prefer to swim into the bay to roll round and scrape off their outdated pores and skin. However they turn out to be trapped inside at low tide due to the shallow entrance. Time for dinner for the polar bears.
Right here, we noticed over a dozen polar bears, together with cubs feasting on useless whales. It was wild. Solely in my morbid goals did I think about seeing polar bears with bloody, gorey faces. There have been beluga within the bay splashing round and even narwhal! It ranks on the prime of the best wildlife experiences ever.
2. Crusing from Iceland to Greenland with Margaret Attwood
One of many coolest experiences final summer season at sea was that Canadian icon and legend Margaret Attwood was onboard with us as a particular visitor on the Iceland to Greenland: In the Wake of the Vikings journey. In case you go to the Arctic, arriving by ship is an actual journey.
A longtime good friend of Journey Canada, Margaret Attwood, joins in on a visit per 12 months. A passionate conservationist and hen nerd alongside along with her late husband, it was ridiculously cool to be on board along with her on such a enjoyable journey. Very very similar to all people else besides with a crafty and darkish humorousness, it was inspirational to be round one of many best writers of our age. Hanging out along with her and listening to her tales, you form of simply shut up and pay attention as a result of they’re so riveting.
She even penned a brief story known as Stone Mattress whereas onboard years in the past. About revenge and homicide (in fact) on the Northwest Passage touring by expedition ship, it’s now a part of the e book of the identical title.
3. Lastly seeing the Northern Lights
I’m so completely satisfied to report that I’ve lastly seen the Northern Lights in spite of everything these years. It was an enormous expertise for me and one which I nearly missed out on.
I’ve been to the Arctic a couple of occasions, and Aurora territory, and I’ve by no means seen them. I spent per week in Arctic Finland in winter—cloudy all the time. Different occasions, I’ve been within the Arctic in summertime when it doesn’t get darkish—no lights. I’ve seen their equal loads in New Zealand, however down right here, it’s nowhere close to as vivid or dramatic—we’re not far sufficient south.
However this time, in September, as we made our means south alongside the western coast of Greenland, the Northern Lights got here out in full power. I used to be getting over being sick and had gone to mattress early once I began to listen to knocking on my door. I ignored it for ages, however my resilient boat bestie, Krista, was not leaving til I obtained as much as see them. Thank god for good associates!
Throwing my gear over my pajamas, we made our approach to the highest deck, and the aurora was popping off! It was insane! I watched it dance for ages, took a couple of photographs, and simply jumped round with everybody, celebrating such a cool expertise. In case you go to the Arctic and wish to see the Northern Lights, Greenland is the place to be.
4. Hanging out with the Shetland ponies in Scotland
My very first journey with Journey Canada was Scotland Slowly, which explores the northern Scottish Isles. Exploring Scotland by sea was unbelievable, and going by expedition ship meant we may absorb many locations which are often onerous to get to.
As an enormous historical past nerd, I liked this journey. Actually, many of the books I purchased for the entire season have been on this journey round Scotland.
But when I’m being sincere right here, my favourite half was being across the Shetland ponies. The Shetland Islands aren’t simple to entry, practically 200 kilometers north of mainland Scotland, near Norway. We known as into the tiny island of Foula for the day, house to some dozen people and a hell of much more ponies. With lovely hen cliffs and unbelievable views, and tiny horses roaming round, it was an actual spotlight for me for the entire some.
5. Standing on sea ice in Baffin Bay
By this level, I’ve been to the Arctic and Antarctic many occasions and spent a good period of time transferring by sea ice, both by ship or on zodiac cruises. Punching by the ice, the crackles and booms towards the ship, wanting in the direction of the horizon for polar bears, sea ice exploration is one in all my favourite issues about polar journey. It makes you’re feeling such as you’re exploring in case you go to the Arctic.
Baffin Bay sprawls throughout northern Canada to Greenland. Frozen all 12 months, channels and enormous components open up within the summertime. Ice situations undoubtedly dictate how we journey by ship. Ships are assigned ice class rankings, relying on the strengthening to undergo sea ice. The ice will be thick or skinny, super-condensed, or unfold out. There are heaps of things that go into understanding sea ice situations – many I’m nonetheless studying myself.
However one factor I’ve by no means completed earlier than is land on sea ice, i.e., get out and stroll on it. It must be outdated, thick, and durable. This season, we discovered the right sea ice to land on in Baffin Bay, nudging the zodiacs onto the ice earlier than hopping out and exploring for a bit. It was a very, actually cool expertise that not many people have completed earlier than. It was so particular.
6. Getting an actual schooling about Inuit life and historical past
I’ll be fully sincere: I didn’t know heaps about Inuit life and tradition earlier than heading to the Arctic. I knew a good quantity concerning the Lacking and Murdered Indigenous Ladies and Women in Canada, together with the horrors of the residential colleges, principally from crime podcasts I take heed to.
However then, there may be solely a lot you may examine till you expertise it your self. And there may be solely a lot you may even start to understand as an outsider.
Journey Canada cares loads about indigenous life, particularly since they function round their lands. Every journey has many native Inuk guides on board as cultural educators. They even have the one Inuk Expedition Chief within the trade. The whole lot occurs in an actual, genuine means; nothing is hidden or sugarcoated. We visited deserted communities the place Inuit residents have been compelled to maneuver, see graves, and study concerning the tragic historical past, notably in Canada. It was actually eye-opening.
7. Getting up shut and private with puffins within the Faroe Islands
Similar to the ponies of Scotland, I used to be enraptured by one other lovely creature – the puffin. In case you go to the Arctic, hopefully you’ll see them!
I had seen puffins earlier than on my first journey to Iceland 1,000,000 years in the past, nevertheless it was earlier than I had a telephoto lens they usually weren’t notably up shut. This time round, I noticed them heaps, generally proper subsequent to you, and wow, are they one of many cutest birds of all time ever. I’ll die on this hill!
A lot smaller than they give the impression of being, they fly with the weirdest gait, legs splayed vast. We noticed them a couple of occasions round Iceland after which heaps within the Faroe Islands, the place they hang around on the cliffs subsequent to a number of the hottest walks.
8. Having my thoughts blown within the Torngat Mountains
On the fringe of the Arctic Circle in Canada is without doubt one of the most unbelievable wilderness areas I had by no means heard of: the Torngat Mountains.
I hadn’t been onboard the Ocean Endeavour lengthy earlier than I heard that one of the crucial universally beloved journeys is their Greenland and Wild Labrador journey, which spends time within the distant Torngats. Perpetually enamored by the very far north, land of bears and ice, Labrador hadn’t actually occurred to me as a spot I might love.
My final journey of the season went right here, and holy crap, guys, it was my favourite place of all. I’ll undoubtedly go into this intimately later, however the Torngats may be my favourite mountain vary on the planet. A particular Inuit homeland, this place is very protected and solely open for a couple of weeks a 12 months. There are not any roads wherever close to right here. However due to Journey Canada’s unbelievable relationship with Inuit, and by bringing locals onboard this journey as guides, we’re in a position to spend practically per week within the Torngat Mountains – with all of it to ourselves. And the bears. There are tons of bears right here.
9. Loopy sunsets at sea in East Greenland
By mid-July we have been totally immersed within the Arctic as we sailed from Iceland over to Greenland. We spent a very good period of time exploring the distant jap facet of Greenland, the place only a few folks reside. With plenty of sea ice and good climate, it was lovely cruising by essentially the most picturesque of Arctic landscapes.
However what made it much more lovely than regular with the loopy sunrises and sunsets we have been getting. Sadly, this wasn’t for a very good purpose. 2023 was Canada’s worst wildfire summer season ever. Almost 20 million hectares of land went up in flame, burning for months at a time.
And the smoke drifted to Greenland. Although it wasn’t tremendous smokey or sturdy in southeastern Greenland, the haze contributed to lengthy, misty sunsets that have been out of this world—a stupendous tragedy.
10. Wandering the magnificent autumn tundra
Autumn comes early in case you go to the Arctic. By September 1st, all the countryside had turned purple and gold within the far north. The mountains had their peaks dusted with the primary snow, and there was a chunk to the air heralding the change of seasons. The midnight signal was gone, and evening returned, bringing dancing auroras amongst the celebrities.
I really like autumn a lot, and it was cool to expertise it in a wholly new panorama. There are not any timber this far north, so the tundra adjustments colours as an alternative. It’s additionally when all of the berries come out, so it made hikes even higher, munching on them.
Would you prefer to expertise a few of these issues in case you go to the Arctic? Or have you ever already? Share!
Many due to Journey Canada for internet hosting me within the Arctic – like all the time, I’m retaining it actual – all opinions are my very own, like you could possibly anticipate much less from me!
